São Tomé & Príncipe: An Unspoiled Island Paradise
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Between dreamlike beaches, unspoiled rainforests, adventurous jungle trails, and breathtaking phonolite towers, São Tomé and Príncipe are a well-kept secret. This travel documentary takes you on a journey to experience the natural treasures of this rarely-visited island nation.
Key Facts
Here are some key facts about São Tomé and Príncipe:
Fact | Details |
---|---|
Location | Off the West African coastline in the Gulf of Guinea |
Status | Second-smallest country in Africa |
Main Islands | São Tomé and Príncipe |
Climate | Tropical (hot and humid) |
Vegetation | Lush rainforests, endemic plant species |
Wildlife | Endemic bird species (e.g., Príncipe starling, Príncipe weaver, São Tomé lemon dove) |
Attractions | Beaches (e.g., Praia Bom Bom, Praia Banana, Praia Boi), waterfalls (e.g., Oquê Pipi), phonolite towers (Baia das Agulhas), equator line |
Conservation Efforts | UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, sustainable tourism initiatives |
Tourism Highlights | Príncipe (less explored), ecoresorts, jungle trails, boat tours |
The Islands
Located off the West African coastline in the Gulf of Guinea, São Tomé and Príncipe is the second-smallest country in Africa. The island state is part of the Cameroon line, a long chain of extinct volcanoes that formed 30 million years ago.
Of the two main islands:
- São Tomé: Much more developed.
- Príncipe: Smaller and less explored.
Arrival on Príncipe
We decided to start our trip on the less explored island of Príncipe. After a short 40-minute propeller plane flight from São Tomé, we were picked up at the airport and driven to our first accommodation, Sundy Praia.
The journey to Sundy Praia involved:
- Initially good roads
- Followed by bumpy, narrow, and winding forest trails
At Sundy Praia, we were delighted by the comfortable luxury of our tented villa, deeply embedded in the surrounding vegetation and offering a direct view of the jungle.
The Beaches of Príncipe
The beautiful yellow sand is a characteristic feature of Príncipe’s coastline. We lounged on the beach, listening to the waves and bird songs and adjusting to the island’s hot and humid tropical climate.
Due to their remote location, several endemic plant species have developed on the islands, perfectly adapting to the local conditions. Until recently, much of Príncipe’s wilderness remained untouched, but it was under threat in 2010 when the government contemplated clearing 1,000 hectares for a palm oil plantation.
Luckily, the local government opposed the plan, believing it would jeopardize the island’s long-term development. To preserve the natural heritage, the only course of action was sustainable tourism.
Sustainable Tourism Efforts
HBD, a company whose name plays on the historic map makers’ expression “here be dragons,” invested in the local economy by opening several hotels and supporting environmental and social initiatives.
Today, guests can enjoy the comforts of a high-end ecoresort while being serenaded by a natural orchestra.
Endemic Wildlife
On Príncipe, we encountered several endemic bird species:
- Príncipe starling
- Príncipe weaver
- São Tomé lemon dove
The most unusual bird we saw was the blue-breasted kingfisher, with some individuals sporting colorful breasts and others less striking.
We also discovered a couple of Mona monkeys (not native to the island) and had to be careful of the thousands of land crabs that come out of their burrows at dusk to forage.
Boat Tour Along the Northern Coastline
The next morning, we embarked on a boat tour along the northern coastline, visiting several pristine beaches:
- Bom Bom islet and Praia Bom Bom
- Praia Banana (a mesmerizing beach hidden in a natural cove)
- Praia Boi (the most captivating beach, with its remote location and clear water)
This landscape, along with the rest of Príncipe, has been protected as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 2012, recognizing the biodiversity of the island’s terrestrial and marine ecosystems.
Rainforest Adventures
After a rainy morning, we visited Ribiera Izé, a lost city entirely reclaimed by the jungle. Only the crumbling ruins of the former Catholic Church remain.
We then headed to the island’s capital, Santo António, affectionately known as the “smallest city in the world,” with its striking blue and white Church of Our Lady of the Rosary.
Our next stop was Roça Paciencia, a former plantation with partially rebuilt gardens. We then visited Belo Monte, which offers sweeping panoramas of stunning beaches and clear water.
Roça Sundy: A Former Cocoa Plantation
After three nights at Sundy Praia, we moved to Roça Sundy, a former cocoa plantation slowly being restored. The master house and several adjacent buildings have been turned into a modern hotel, while several ruins remain in the vicinity, providing a fascinating glimpse into the past.
We learned about the island’s history:
- In the 15th century, the Portuguese arrived and established sugar cane plantations, making São Tomé and Príncipe the biggest producers of sugar cane in the world (until Brazil lost the title).
- In 1819, they brought cocoa, and the islands became the biggest cocoa producers in the world (until losing the title to the Ivory Coast and Ghana).
The flag’s yellow color represents the cocoa that was once the islands’ wealth, while the green represents nature.
In 1919, British astronomer Sir Arthur Eddington proved Einstein’s theory of General Relativity on Príncipe, a cornerstone of modern physics.
Hiking in the Obô Natural Park
To explore the southern half of Príncipe, we hiked through the lush jungle of the Obô Natural Park, a haven for numerous plant and animal species.
The highlight of our hike was the island’s largest waterfall, Oquê Pipi, where we enjoyed a refreshing dip in the pool at the bottom.
Baia das Agulhas and the Phonolite Towers
Our last expedition on Príncipe brought us to Baia das Agulhas (Bay of Needles), where we were awestruck by the impressive phonolite towers rising from the surrounding jungle – a breathtaking volcanic skyline.
Almost the entire south of Príncipe is uninhabited, except for tiny seaside fishing settlements, allowing the vegetation along the shore to thrive in a riotous gallimaufry of green.
Exploring São Tomé
After bidding farewell to Príncipe, we flew back to the main island of São Tomé and rented a car to explore the island’s interior.
We drove deep into the highlands, surrounded by the rainforest, to visit Cascata de São Nicolau, a 60-meter roadside waterfall.
We continued our road trip towards the coastal settlement of Fernão Dias, where we witnessed the hatching and release of Olive Ridley Sea Turtles by the conservation NGO Programa Tatô.
The West Coast
The next day, we explored the west coast, starting with the sheltered bay of Lagoa Azul, known for its pebble beach and turquoise-colored water.
As we drove further southwest, the road conditions deteriorated, but we were rewarded with stunning ocean vistas and waterfalls along the way.
The East Coast and Pico Cão Grande
On the eastern side of the island, we visited Boca do Inferno (Hell’s Mouth), a rock formation with a narrow channel that creates geyser-like eruptions.
Our journey continued south along a winding road, passing locals doing laundry and arriving at Pico Cão Grande, a 663-meter tall volcanic plug peak that dominates the landscape.
We then visited Praia Grande, a beach with soft sand, unlike the pebble coasts further north.
The Southern Village of Porto Alegre
In the southern village of Porto Alegre, we encountered a lively scene with locals engaged in tourism, fishing, surfing, and playing football.
Venturing further into the forest on adventurous 4×4 trails, we discovered hidden beaches like Praia Piscina and Praia Jalé.
Here’s the continuation of the rewritten article:
Ilhéu das Rolas: The Equator Island
Our final adventure was a boat trip to Ilhéu das Rolas, a satellite island of São Tomé. After a smooth crossing of the channel, we set out on the coastal hiking trail that leads halfway around the islet.
We arrived at Praia Café, renowned for its white sand and clear water, before continuing through the forest, where we were fascinated by the thousands of coconut husks covering even the trail itself.
Along the way, we encountered dense forests, picturesque coastlines, and particularly pretty bays. At one point, we found ourselves straddling the equator line, with one leg in the northern hemisphere and the other in the southern hemisphere.
A monument marking the equator’s passage through the island was built at an elevated position, offering fantastic views.
Conclusion
Far away from well-trodden tourist paths, this island nation is still an unpolished jewel. We sincerely hope that São Tomé and Príncipe will develop sustainably, protecting as much of their unspoiled nature as possible. If they do, these islands won’t remain a secret much longer.