Corsica: The Island of Beauty – A 4×4 Road Trip Adventure
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From emerald pools of water to imposing granite peaks, winding mountain roads, and staggering coastlines, Corsica’s scenery is delightfully diverse. Follow us on our epic four-week journey as we explore the Island of Beauty by 4×4, traversing rugged off-road trails and uncovering hidden gems along the way.
Located in southern Europe, Corsica is the fourth-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. Politically a part of France, the Corse people have retained their distinct identity and culture over the centuries. Our road trip through this wild and untamed land started by disembarking the ferry in Bastia, the principal port town.
Cap Corse: The Index Finger of Corsica
Coastal Gems and Off-Road Adventures
We quickly headed towards Cap Corse, nicknamed the “index finger” of Corsica due to its elongated shape, which extends north for 40 kilometers. Hugging the coastline, a scenic road offers mesmerizing vistas of crystal-clear water and rugged scenery, passing through picturesque settlements like Erbalunga, a quaint fishing village that awakens to life throughout the day.
Leaving the village behind, we embarked on our first off-road adventure—a bumpy 8-kilometer trail that characterizes Corsica as the “wild island of the Mediterranean.” The rocky track, filled with countless switchback turns, wound its way through densely growing evergreen shrubs known as macchia or maquis.
From the Col de San Giovanni pass, we had a wonderful view of the sea and surrounding peaks, made even more intriguing by the rolling clouds. Eager to explore further, we deflated our tires to smoothen the ride and avoid punctures before continuing on the rugged terrain.
Coastal Hiking and Genoese Towers
Back on the coastal road, we drove as far northeast as possible, arriving in a sheltered bay. We followed the Sentiers des Duaniers, a coastal hiking trail providing scenic views of several Genoese towers – 16th-century coastal defenses built by the Republic of Genoa to protect the island from Ottoman pirates. These towers, with around two-thirds still standing today, served as a reminder of Corsica’s turbulent history.
As the day drew to an end, we set up camp and marveled at the spectacular sunset, a fitting conclusion to our first day on this enchanting island.
The Nebbio Region and Medieval Wonders
The next morning, we visited the remnants of a medieval castle and a convent of impressive size, highlighting the former importance of the village we explored. We then continued to the Nebbiolo region, named after the Italian word for fog, hinting at the regular presence of clouds in the area.
Taking a break from driving, we sat on the shore of a tranquil lake and listened to the sounds of nature. Nearby, we encountered an unusual 13th-century church built of green serpentine and white limestone blocks, resembling a striking checkerboard pattern – a true architectural marvel.
The Désert des Agriates and Pristine Beaches
Our journey then led us to the Plage de Saleccia, a long sandy beach with incredibly turquoise water. It overlooks the Désert des Agriates, a 40-kilometer-long coastal strip that is almost entirely uninhabited and left to the forces of nature.
The majority of the vegetation in this arid region is evergreen maquis. Still, during Spring, many blooming flowers and the odd cactus make for an interesting contrast against the rugged landscape. We explored the area via off-road trails, one of which led us to a nearby beach, though parts of it suffered from an algae problem.
The Balagne Region: Hiking and Wildlife Encounters
In the Balagne region, we embarked on separate hiking adventures. Anna, suffering from chronic hip pain, opted for gentler trails while I hiked through a mystical forest to the summit of Monte Astu, accompanied by a stray dog that decided to adopt me for a while. The summit provided panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, a reward for the strenuous climb.
We then headed inland, camping next to a bubbling river in the Asco Valley, surrounded by majestic summits. The following day, we spotted moufflon, a wild type of sheep native to Corsica, in the dense forest below. These elusive animals, with only around 1,000 left on the island, inhabit the high and steep ridgelines of the mountains.
Golo Valley and Lac de Nino Hike
Continuing our journey in the Golo Valley, the winding road through the valley was a scenic delight, occasionally encountering heavy traffic as hikers flocked to the numerous trails in the area. I embarked on a hike to Lac de Nino, a glacial lake characterized by its meandering meltwater tributaries and lush meadows, contrasting with the bare rock of the surrounding mountains.
Along the way, I encountered unusual nests built by the pine processionary moth, a highly destructive species known for its irritating hairs. The trail became increasingly strenuous as I climbed up a rocky scree field, but the effort was rewarded with glorious vistas of the lake and snow-covered peaks in the distance.
Encounters with Corsican Wildlife
Throughout our journey, we encountered various wildlife, some more friendly than others:
Wild Pigs and Piglets: Corsica is well-known for its herds of stray pigs and cattle that wander freely around the island. We captured the adorable piglets suckling on their mother’s teats, causing proper turmoil – a sight to behold, yet a reminder of the havoc these wild pigs can wreak on farmers’ gardens as they dig up everything in sight.
Birds of Prey: As we sat down for lunch on top of the cliffs, a bird of prey was patiently circling above us, perhaps waiting for scraps or eyeing potential prey.
Lizards: On one of our hikes, we spotted two lizards engaged in a biting battle, a glimpse into the struggle for survival in the animal kingdom.
Dung Beetles: In a serene mountain meadow, we witnessed the industrious dung beetle population hard at work, busily breaking down the remains left by the resident horses.
The Ultimate Challenge: Climbing Monte Cinto
One of the highlights of our Corsican adventure was my attempt to climb Monte Cinto, the island’s highest peak at 2,706 meters. Although I couldn’t reach the summit due to deep snow and lack of proper equipment like crampons or ice axes, I managed to climb up to around 2,500 meters, carefully scrambling up snow fields and rock crevices.
The journey was both physically and mentally demanding, but the breathtaking views along the way made every step worthwhile. Sitting alone on my “mountainy throne” in a world of snow and rock, I deeply felt the contrast of Corsica’s landscapes – one moment, the Mediterranean sun intensely warmed my skin; the next, quick-moving clouds played a game of tag, reminding me of the brute force of the elements.
While I couldn’t conquer the summit this time, the experience left me with a profound appreciation for the island’s rugged beauty and a desire to return, better prepared for the challenge.
The Coastline of Wonders
Leaving the tallest summits behind, we followed a spectacular coastal road featuring awe-inspiring natural wonders:
- The Spelunca Gorge: A river valley framed by commanding peaks, the Spelunca Gorge offers a picturesque setting. A Genoese bridge spanning the river adds a touch of history to the landscape.
- The Gulf of Girolata: A former fishing village accessible only by sea or on foot, the Gulf of Girolata is a favourite destination for boat excursions, offering breathtaking views of the rugged coastline.
- The Calanche: An area dominated by ruddy granite rocks, the Calanche offered a striking contrast against the green scrub and intensely blue sea. Short walking trails allowed us to explore these oddly shaped rock formations, skillfully crafted by the elements over time.
We also visited Capu Rosso, where a Genoese tower sits atop a steep 300-meter-high cliff, providing staggering vistas of the surrounding bays. The sheer drop into the sea below reminded us of the strategic importance of these coastal defenses in the past.
Urban Exploration: Discovering Corsica’s Towns and Cities
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Bastia Old harbor, sheltered cove, and narrow alleyways in the old quarter. We only lingered a short time in the principal port town as we were eager to explore the island’s interior.
Calvi has Small-town charm, historic buildings, and a crescent-shaped bay. The old town’s deserted streets in the early morning allowed us to appreciate the architecture in solitude. Calvi quickly became Corsica’s favorite city.
Ajaccio, Corsica’s capital city, greeted us with heavy crowds during our lunchtime visit. After driving through half the town searching for parking, we promptly left, finding the hustle and bustle too overwhelming compared to the tranquillity of the island’s natural landscapes.
Corte The only major town in inland Corsica, Corte is a popular tourist destination with steep alleys, slate-roofed houses, and the citadel towering above the town on a rocky outcrop. Its strategic location provided easy access to the remarkable Restonica Valley.
The Restonica Valley: A Primeval Mountain Landscape
Speaking of the Restonica Valley, this imposing vale was a definite highlight on our Corsica road trip. Steep granite peaks, green forests, bubbling rivers, and rumbling waterfalls composed the image of an ancient mountain landscape that transported visitors back in time.
While the valley’s hiking trails were popular among other travelers, we managed to find pockets of solitude by starting our treks early in the morning. One mildly challenging hike led us up to two beautiful lakes:
- Lac de Melo: Reached after around 90 minutes of hiking, the lower of the two lakes provided a scenic resting spot, with the steep trail and scenery offering countless reasons to pause and catch our breath.
- Lac de Capitello: Framed by rugged granite peaks, this lake was the ultimate destination, another hour’s hike from Lac de Melo. It was the perfect spot to linger and marvel at the view, watching mountain climbers scale the sheer rock faces while others hiked even higher, conquering a steep snowfield.
The spirit of the Restonica Valley captivated us so much that we set up camp underneath large pine trees and spent a couple of days lounging in our hammock, disconnecting from the world and embracing the tranquillity of nature.
Mishaps and Misadventures: When Things Don’t Go as Planned
Not every moment of our Corsican adventure was picture-perfect. We encountered a few mishaps and misadventures along the way, reminding us that travel often involves unexpected twists and turns:
- Twisted Knee on a Hiking Trail: While exploring one of the island’s many hiking trails, I slipped on wet rocks and twisted my knee, abruptly ending that particular hike. The incident served as a humbling reminder to respect the rugged terrain and exercise caution, even on seemingly easy trails.
- The Great Drone Rescue: In a comical turn of events, our drone became entangled in the highest branch of an overgrown tree near an abandoned church. For over three hours, we tried various tactics to retrieve it, from attempting to climb the tree to attaching a clothesline and yanking on it vigorously. Even a local policeman joined the fray, shooting at the drone with his air pistol in an attempt to dislodge it. Finally, after ferocious tugging, the drone fell to the ground – unfortunately, it didn’t survive the fall.
Despite these hiccups, we learned to embrace the unpredictability of travel and laugh at the mishaps, knowing they would become cherished memories and stories to share.
Tranquil Lakes, Waterfalls, and Natural Wonders
As our journey neared its end, we returned to the coast, setting up camp directly on the beach and relaxing to the rhythmic sound of the waves. But Corsica had more natural wonders in store for us:
- Lac de L’Ospedale: A placid reservoir surrounded by an enchanting forest, with the high water level submerging some of the trees along the shore, creating a surreal landscape.
- Piscia di Gallo: A 70-meter-high waterfall accessible on an easy hike, this natural wonder was a testament to the island’s diverse and breathtaking scenery.
- Castellu di Cucuruzzu: More than just a pleasant stroll through a fairytale-like forest with huge granite boulders and moss-covered walls, this trail provided access to a megalithic cult site of the Torrean civilization, offering a glimpse into Corsica’s ancient history.
The Bavella Massif: The Dolomites of Corsica
No trip to Corsica would be complete without witnessing the Bavella massif, nicknamed the “Dolomites of Corsica” for its distinctive granite towers. A multitude of hiking trails allowed us to discover this stunning landscape, like the Trou de la Bombe – a fascinating hole in the rock that provided stunning views of the surrounding mountain massif.
Driving down from the pass, we soon found ourselves admiring several emerald waterholes, their clarity making the water appear almost translucent. Following a recommendation from our hiking guide, I embarked on a trail that followed the course of the river, only to twist my knee again – a reminder that even the most beautiful destinations can pose unexpected challenges.
Tranquil Moments and Stargazing
Throughout our journey, we savored tranquil moments that allowed us to immerse ourselves fully in the island’s beauty. Setting up camp below venerable cork oaks, we relaxed in our hammock, watching the birds herald the end of the day.
On our final night, we camped directly on the beach, mesmerized by the rhythmic sound of the waves and the stars that appeared once the sun had set. The stars granted us a wonderful view of the night sky—a fitting farewell to this enchanting island.
In Last
After four weeks on Corsica, having driven 2,000 kilometers, it was time to bid farewell to the Island of Beauty. Rarely have we driven on such picturesque roads, encountered such translucent waterholes, or laid eyes on such a fabulous coastline. From the rugged mountains and primeval forests to the staggering cliffs and crystal-clear waters, Corsica left an indelible mark on our souls.
The name “Island of Beauty” is not bestowed lightly, but we wholeheartedly agree that Corsica deserves this moniker. Our 4×4 road trip adventure was an unforgettable journey through a land of contrasts, where nature’s raw power and serenity coexist in perfect harmony.