The Grand Moroccan Roadtrip: Exploring a Land of Contrasts
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Morocco is a land of stark contrasts and diverse landscapes, from wind-sculpted dunes to snow-capped mountains, sophisticated architecture, and vibrant souks. This 8-week, 10,000-kilometer journey through the country promises adventures and mishaps aplenty for the daring traveler as you immerse yourself in a wealth of sounds, sights, and smells, creating memories that will last a lifetime.
The Journey Begins
Chefchaouen: The Blue Pearl
Our journey commenced by disembarking the ferry in Tanger Med and driving towards Chefchaouen, widely known as the “Blue Pearl” of Morocco. The city’s blue-hued buildings, a result of various theories ranging from the soothing effect of the color to attracting visitors, are a sight to behold. The steep alleyways, too narrow for vehicles, create an atmosphere of calm, allowing visitors to explore the Medina on foot.
Talassemtane National Park
Venturing into Talassemtane National Park, we marveled at the massive rock walls in a reddish hue, providing a beautiful contrast to the green vegetation. Created to protect Morocco’s last fir trees, the park is now famous for its hiking trails, leading along emerald mountain streams.
Alas, their natural beauty is often tainted by human pollution. Our destination, the Bridge of God – a natural rock arch spanning a deep gorge, surrounded by the aroma of riverside restaurants, was a highlight of this stop.
Coastal Delights
Hugging the Mediterranean coastline, we stopped to appreciate the winding seaside road, numerous fishing villages, and the unique shapes of the coastline. Highlights included a former fort towering above a village, offering a staggering view, and a peninsula officially belonging to Spain – the shortest land border between two countries on earth.
The Desert Beckons
Erg Chebbi: A Sea of Sand
Leaving the coast behind, we entered the desert, our first taste being the vast dunes of Erg Chebbi. Highlights included:
- Witnessing the sunrise over the dunes from the back of a camel after packing ourselves in countless layers of clothing to brave the freezing temperatures
- Camping amidst the dunes, with a jaw-dropping view from the highest dune, rising to 150 meters
- Exploring the ever-changing ripple patterns and contrasting play of light and dark on the sand
Remote Eastern Morocco
Venturing deeper into the desert, we embarked on remote off-road trails, driving for days without encountering another car. The landscapes were breathtaking and rarely visited, offering a true escape from the complexities of modern life.
Some notable experiences:
- Crossing salt pans and discovering a lost city in the middle of the desert, said to have been a retreat for independence fighters during the French occupation
- Witnessing the resilience of desert flora, like the dwarf subshrubs (Anabasis) – bizarre plants that survive hyper-dry periods and cold winters by forming dense hemispherical cushions
- Encountering nomadic herders and their camels, vital to conquering the desert, with their unique adaptations like bushy eyebrows, independently moving lips, and cone-shaped mouth structures to consume thorny bushes
Dadès Gorge and the Valley of Roses
Leaving the desert behind, we explored the impressive Dadès Gorge, with walls reaching up to 500 meters high, carved by the Dadès River over thousands of years. Another highlight was the idyllic Valley of Roses, much less visited but offering wonderful views, where women cut reed grass to make baskets and other handicrafts.
Western Sahara: The Highway of Emptiness
Politically disputed, Western Sahara offered an opportunity to experience a vast, desolate landscape, with the Atlantic Ocean carving out impressive cliff edges along the coast. Highlights included:
- Encountering the Assalama shipwreck, a ferry that ran aground in 2008, with Morocco’s pleas for the Spanish company to clean up their mess falling on deaf ears
- Visiting Khenifiss National Park, a winter habitat for migratory bird species flocking here in their thousands, including flamingos
- Camping atop cliffs, taking in the perpetual movements of the tide, surrounded by the thunderous sound of waves
The Anti-Atlas and Painted Rocks
Inland, the Anti-Atlas range revealed traditional villages built into rock faces, towering rock walls, and dust devils whipping through dry riverbeds. A standout experience was the peculiar Painted Rocks near Tafraout—a controversial work of art by a Belgian artist that divided opinions on whether the artificial coloring highlights the individual rocks or feels misplaced in the natural environment.
Marrakech: A Feast for the Senses
Every visit to Morocco is complete with experiencing the bustling city of Marrakech, where the senses are overwhelmed by the cacophony of noises, the chaos of Jemaa el-Fnaa square, and the labyrinthine souks.
Highlights included:
- Marveling at the intricate artwork of the Bahia Palace and historic mosques like the Kasbah Mosque and Kutubiyya Mosque
- Staying at the luxurious La Sultana Marrakech, a dream in white with elaborate craftsmanship, offering a rooftop terrace to watch the frantic activity of the souks below
- Hiking to the summit of Djebel Toubkal, Morocco’s highest mountain at 4,167 meters, offering unparalleled views of the Atlas Range despite the arduous climb through snow-covered trails
The Atlas Mountains and Volubilis
Driving along the western flank of the Atlas Mountains, we passed traditional villages perched above rapidly flowing rivers, with buildings made of rammed earth construction, fitting harmoniously into the landscape. Significant stops included:
- The archaeological site of Volubilis, with its well-preserved Roman mosaics depicting mythical and everyday scenes
- Ouzoud Falls, Morocco’s highest waterfall at 110 meters, is most impressive after winter
- Aguelma Azigza National Park is home to the endangered Barbary Macaques, intelligent primates that have learned to investigate human trash, highlighting the impact of habitat loss
Fès and Rabat: Imperial Cities
Fès, another imperial city, captivated us with its metal souk and the famous tanneries, where workers continue the age-old tradition of leather-making through backbreaking labor. The process involves soaking hides in vats of white liquid (water, salt, pigeon feces, and quicklime), followed by dyeing them in brown tubs using natural materials like henna and indigo.
Rabat, the capital, left a lasting impression with its beauty, well-kept historical buildings, and landmarks like the Hassan Tower (a 12th-century unfinished minaret) and the Kasbah of the Udayas, known for its white buildings and blue doors.
Summary
After eight weeks and 10,000 kilometers, our journey through Morocco came to an end, but the memories and lessons learned will endure. We discovered the incredible resilience of mankind, the ability to achieve anything with determination, and the simple joy of appreciating the wonders of our planet in good company.
This Grand Moroccan trip was a true adventure, filled with challenges, awe-inspiring landscapes, and a deep appreciation for the contrasts and diversity that make Morocco a truly remarkable destination. From the bustling chaos of cities to the serene solitude of the desert, the country offered a wealth of experiences that will forever be etched in our minds.